WHY EVEN HAVE A LAWN?

LAWNS ARE GOOD FOR US AND THE ENVIRONMENT

1. Looks great! “In most cases, the major horticultural feature of your home, is your lawn”. Al Bow 1985. The healthy lawns are thick, green, healthy and weed free. Lawns are the first impression of you and your property. Turf frames the home, gardens or any focal point horticultural or architectural.

2. Maintains and even increases your property value. It’s curb appeal if you going to sell your home. The average home is worth over a million!

3. Kids like to play on it and so do pets. Get that exercise. Take your shoes off and walk on it.

4. Stops floods, no heavy rains to get in your basement

5. Noise reduction from traffic

6. Provides better air quality. Grass absorbs CO2 and releases clean oxygen

7. Turf creates cooler air. Concrete and asphalt are hot spots, 30C hotter.

8. There is a great deal of life in the soil under your lawn, nematodes, bacteria, fungi, earthworms

9. Lawns absorb pollution

10. I like to mow, its relaxing and grass smells great when cut. Clippings add organic matter to the soil. Clippings are more than 90% water.

11. Turf reduces soil erosion. Turf is well anchored with lots of roots and stops water replenishes water table and its filtered

12. Green spaces are excellent for mental health, its calming

LAWN MAINTENANCE

THERE ARE 3 BASIC KEYS TO HAVING A NICE AND HEALTHY LAWN:

1.) Proper Watering 2.) Proper Organic Fertilizer 3.) Proper Mowing

Most Important! We establish and then maintain Organic Lawns.

Let us work together. Understand organics, most do not,like these big traditional lawn care chains-some have been around 30 years-many have a huge annual client turnover “. They focus on non-organics- only on a spike of fast, unnatural, green top growth with cheap, synthetic, high nitrogen fertilizers. Non-organic lawns are not healthy, they are bad for the soil: degrade the soil, open to grub attack, kill the good bugs, their turf becomes addicted to high nitrogen and resistant to organic matter. They focus on chemistry. We focus on biology. They usually start far too early, do not clean out aerators between jobs, so you get the last property’s weeds, none pull any weeds. Our lawns are long and lush, with lightly trimmed edges, we pull weeds and use the best, natural, slow- release, organic fertilizer.

THE FIRST KEY IS WATERING: Water is the most important nutrient, by far!

You control watering-and it’s a must and it is vital. Turf needs 1-2 inch of water weekly. Have a schedule and check the rain forecast. If it going to rain, no need to water. If no rain, please water deeply once or twice a week, for an hour. Don’t water at night, water early in the morning, all areas (zones) covered about one hour-one inch, before sunrise. Weeds thrive in dry lawns! for a thesis.

Most lawns with no irrigation (sprinkler system) or proper hose(s) watering will go brown and dormant in the hot summer and have more weeds.

Irrigation is vital, so your lawn does not dry out, keeps it lush and green, prevents diseases, provides deep roots, helps the soil, providing nutrients, cools the turf, we want a uniform lawn, thick, weed-free and healthy.

Watering is crucial for over seeding and requires watering every day. Kentucky Blue grass seed requires 4 weeks of daily watering. Keep watering lawns trees, gardens and shrubs, right up to first frost

We strongly suggest a sprinkler system-it is one very important solution to climate change. They are efficient if installed by professionals. No one likes dragging around those hoses. It is always wise to get several quotes. A rain sensor (that faces the right way) is part of the package.

Please do not buy a “bargain” system they will not last, they are buried too shallow and the first frost ruins them. Vehicles with no signage are probably bad news. Try the simple and economical: 2 hoses, 2 sprinklers and a timer, we will help you do this, at no charge. We check for leaching or run off.

On a super hot day your trees, shrubs and lawns appreciate a “spritzing”, a quick cooling spray.

Large trees, shrubs and turf need a big drink, before the dry winter. Lawns go brown and dormant without water and its stressful and difficult for the turf to recover fully.

WE WILL HELP YOU ACQUIRE AN UNDERSTANDING OF HORTICULTURE AND REALISTIC EXPECTATIONS:

Lawn care is on-going turf maintenance. We cannot do the impossible-here is no quick-fix, especially if there have been years of neglect or the use of cheap, man-made, high nitrogen fertilizers that have degraded the soil. Once an organic lawn has been established, and it takes more than one season, it will be greatly improved and sustainable, with far less weeds, deeper roots, drought resistant and better soil.

Each visit we pull weeds and spray Fiesta on lawns and horticultural vinegar on weeds on hardscapes. We also repair any small bare spots, pet or salt damaged areas. Yes, your lawn will always be under attack from weeds. Some weeds and plants are invasive. Since 2008 the government banned all pesticides, insecticides and fungicides. Due to the reports of cancer, gone are Par 3, Killex, 2,4 D, Diazinon, Dimension, Sevin and Round up (glyphosate) also they kill birds and bees. There are huge fines for law breakers! Only golf courses, farms and cemeteries are exempt. You will probably always have some weeds and only golf courses with million-dollar budgets, with highly skilled crews, special chemicals providing daily maintenance provide 100% perfect lawns. We visit and treat your lawn with 5 visits per season. We like to spend the time to do a good job.

The more you put in-the more you get out but extremely bad weather or drought can ruin a lawn. Most damaged lawns can be fixed; it does take time or will have to sod! Fertilizers, weed controls, soils and grass seeds vary: We use safe, natural, slow release, granular, organic fertilizers,that lasts several weeks, with each application. Our soil is an enriched, weed-free, loam mix. Rarely is ph off, but it is very important, and we will correct low or high ph. We check it because the correct ph is important it determines the availability of almost all essential plant nutrients. Water is the most important! Lawns can be very different, with different species of grass, soils and conditions.

We use the correct grass seed for sun or shade and always the same seed mix for uniform colorand same species. Most soils around here are clay-based, some sandy spots. Very few require a soil test.

2.) THE SECOND KEY IS FERTILIZERS

THE KENSINGTON ADVANTAGE: WE KNOW WHAT TO ADD…WHEN TO ADD…AND HOW MUCH TO ADD

FERTILIZERS: Organic fertilizers do cost more but are worth it, they are good for the soil and sustainable. We want to crowd out weeds with a thick lawn. The 3 numbers on the fertilizer bag indicate the percentage by weight of each nutrient the first number is the largest, N is nitrogen, providing green growth, (up) P is phosphorous for strong roots (down) and K is for potassium for vigorous growth and hardiness (all around). Bags should have labels and amount of ingredients, no filler.

Stay away from manures, man- made, high filler and high nitrogen fertilizers! Depending on weather conditions and turf vitality we look at fertilizing, 3 to 5 times per season, April/early May, early July, early September and Mid October. We use slow release, low nitrogen, granular organic fertilizers. We calibrate our equipment and know the right walking speed for the correct amounts.

Grass is a mon-culture. We look at what the grass needs to thrive, sometimes water, fertilizer and in the summer, we add organic matter (soil) rather than fertilizer. Organic matter is important food for the fungi, microbes and bacteria. Leave your clippings they act as another round of fertilizer and those blades are 90% water—thatch is rare.

THE WEATHER HAS RADICALLY CHANGED: The summers are now longer and hotter and often drier! For the past 60 years each decade has got hotter! THE LAST 5 YEARS WERE THE HOTTEST ON RECORD! With climate change it’s much hotter and there is a rapid transition between seasons that stresses out lawns and shrubs and trees. Yet it is predicted we will have more heavy rain falls! We will monitor and document issues, spring, summer and fall. Treatments and timing vary due to conditions. Due to climate change some areas experience extreme weather, flooding droughts and fires see Greenpeace International. July 2024 set a record for rainfall. Climate change: Extreme Weather!

In 2019 Halton Region declared a climate crisis! Summers are now very hot and longer plus flooding! The regional Chair, Gary Carr is making positive steps to ensure our community is prepared for severe weather events. In high heat, UV and humidex-drink water!

OUR TREATMENTS ARE CUMULATIVE: You will see many of the positive results of our work shows up later, even the next season. With good weather and proper watering there will be far less weeds and your lawn will get better each year. Sustainable, good for today and good for tomorrow.

RAIN: makes the grass and weeds grow and grow quickly! Please call if it gets too long or too weedy! If rain or extreme heat will return the next work day. We cannot call ahead.

THE THIRD KEY IS MOWING

This is an important part of the “Kensington Advantage” process, mowing high to provide long grass that makes deep roots! Organic lawns are long and lush, not highly manicured. WHEN AND HOW: Except during drought, do frequent mowing, grow and Cut high to 3 to or more”are one of the keys to success. Again, we want a natural, lush look, we do not trim edges too severely, if at all, this is the best way to keep out weed seeds, especially crab grass! If you walk down your street you will see most lawns have weedy edges due to trimming far too short.

Tall grass is vital provides density, deep roots, keeps out weed seeds and makes your lawn stronger-healthier, to survive droughts and absorb more nutrients.

Sharpen your blades 2 or 3 times per season so you cut and not tear the blades

Please no” gutter” edging-this is a landing spot for weed seeds and wild grasses. Any bare soil is bad.

Only cut short - just before over seeding for good seed/soil contact. Keep mowing until the grass stops growing.

When we cut, we do not move anything and we steer around dog poop.

Never cut if the grass is not growing, like during droughts, it may kill the lawn.

Your weed control/fertilizer plan and mowing will see better results.

Mowing charges are an average mowing the thick spring grass caused by heavy spring rains —where have to mow twice and bag clippings—and in summer with and low growth in summer. You cannot mow when wet if damages the lawn, leaves deep ruts, it’s a rough cut and leaves clippings that stick on all surfaces

WEEDS

WEEDS: THERE IS NO MAGIC WAND!

The best defence is a thick lawn, that will crowd out weeds. Your lawn will always be under attack from weeds and weed seeds. We hate weeds and try to get them all, by pulling and spraying each visit. Since the provincial pesticide ban it is impossible to get them all 100%. There are weed seeds in your lawn now, more will be blown in, bird droppings can contain weed seeds. Weed free lawns are treated with illegal, highly toxic pesticides. We pull weeds and that is 100% effective. We spray Fiesta for the lawn and horticultural vinegar for weeds in cracks. We use back pack sprayers to spray the weeds and not the soil. Since the provincial pesticide ban some weeds cannot be controlled. If you have a corner lot or are near a park, conservation area you will get more weed seeds-you may need more visits, a barrier (a mulch border) or replacement with sod. Sometimes, we will mow with bags to collect weed seeds. Crabgrass is an annual weed and if we get the seeds most will not return. Weeds thrive when it’s dry and hot!

COMMON WEEDS: Weed control is our greatest challenge: Dandelions, crabgrass, thistles, plantains, purslane, chickweed, spurges, ground ivy, black medic, bind, mallow, speedwell, henbit, mock strawberry, violet, white clover, wild garlic mustard and onion, quack grass and others. Check your borders make sure weeds don’t come in from neighbour’s property.

FIESTA: Is the number one favourite product in Canada for weed control. It’s been around since 2011. This liquid is the industry standard for weed control on lawns. Fiesta is a selective broad leaf control, with no odour, it is legal, government approved and safe. It works though iron toxicity. Since the ban on pesticides, its all we have to control weeds. We won’t get them all but we pull and spray them each visit! On the average lawn we don’t believe in blanket spraying but prefer spot spraying the weeds. The active ingredient is iron, so stay off until it dries it does stain! It is safe for family, pets and the environment.

We buy Fiesta concentrated and often use it full strength— weed goes black and dies-but not always. The normal rate is 5 gallons per 1,000 sq. ft for broadcast. 12.5 Fl per gal for spot spraying.

Fiesta says, “in lawns it controls and suppresses”: Black Medic, Narrow and Persian Speedwell, Shepherds Purse, Broadleaf Plantain, Bull and Canadian Thistle, Common Chickweed, Creeping Buttercup, Dandelion, Dovefoot Geranium, English Daisy, White Clover also moss and algae.

HORTICULTUTAL VINEGAR: Works great on weeds in cracks in hardscape—but kills grass.

SIGNS ON LAWNS: If we leave a sign, take it down the next day.

ROUND UP: Please do not use it. It is a dangerous health threat, the makers, Montesano and Bayer face many multi-million lawsuits. It kills weeds in hardscapes but kills lawns.

Environment License, we are licensed by the Ministry of the Environment to spray: poison ivy, giant hog weed. We can spray pesticides for farms, cemeteries and golf courses.

SERVICE CALLS: We are trying to control nature; sometime weeds can grow and grow very quickly between visits. Please give us a call, we will check out the situation and re-spray if necessary. There is a reasonable limit here.

INVASIVE SPECIES: “They can be plants, animals, insects and micro-organisms and are found outside of their natural range, and whose presence poses a threat to environmental health, the economy, or society”. (Government of Canada, 2004) The Invasive Species Act of 2015 lists 20 invasive species-we need to do far more to stop them.

INVASIVE PLANTS: Autumn Olive, Black Locust, Buckthorn, Dog-strangling Vine, European Black Alder, Garlic Mustard, Giant Hogweed, Invasive Honeysuckles, Japanese Knotweed, Multiflora Rose, Phragmites, Purple Loosestrife, Reed Canary Grass, Scots Pine, Spotted Knapweed, White Sweet Clover, Wild Parsnip. These plants are all bad, they out- compete natural plants, create monocultures can be toxic, wreck soil chemistry, reduce land values and cost a lot of money to have them controlled. Some of our common ground covers are also invasive. The Ontario Invasive Council says invasive species are a leading threat to biodiversity around the world!

RESEARCH: is an important part of our mission. It’s really about constantly raising our standards. Please ask us anything. Let us know any questions you have. Over the years we done the research and changed and improved our choice of fertilizers, grass seed, soil, different soil amendments, species of nematodes and added liquid aeration. We really enjoy this research with our colleges and professors at the university of Guelph, they have done turf research sine 1988! We have colleagues around the world.

We will continue to watch the negative conditions from climate change, the heat and humidity. The droughts are getting hotter and longer. We are also checking for lawn problems and their solutions-- we looked at corn gluten, 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet! it is very expensive and not effective; lime is good and takes time to work into the soil and worm castings to hold moisture and add nutrients to the soil.

Also, we are looking at the future: robotic lawn mowers, ban on gas powered blowers due to pollution and noise, high gas costs, various invasive species, like giant hog, climate change and pollution.

MONITOR, DOCUMENT, DIAGNOSE AND ACT: Prevent the problems and maintain the good. We watch your lawn carefully, looking at, turf health (vigour) and the current conditions. Each visit we check for needs, current soil, the need for soil or soil, soil amendments, fertilizers, weeds, insects and diseases. A litre of soil holds 80 km of roots and we want those roots deep and wide roots. About 40% of turf dies and is replaced every year with new growth. It important to care for your turf with what’s needed. Please call if you see something that concerns you!

IPM: Integrated pest management-we apply this is a decision -making process to take care of lawns in an environmentally safe way-to prevent problems, to monitor, document, identify, take action and evaluate our success or not. IPM should be an industry standard, it is one of our cornerstones.

D A N G E R !--- PREVENTION IS ALWAYS BETTER THAN THE CURE !

Please share this.To stop West Nile, no standing water! Watch for ticks that spread Lyme disease and other serious diseases. Insects love hot weather! Seeds from bird feeders often attract mice and rats. Poison Ivy, Oak, Sumac, Giant Hog Weed, underground bees and ragweed are all here in Halton region. We also have mosquitoes, coyotes, skunks and raccoons.

PESTICIDES: Don’t use them. You can’t use they are illegal to use! The ban also includes fungicides and insecticides. They cause cancer, give off VOC’S and kill the life in the soil.

Allergy season is getting worse due to climate change-With longer, hotter summers the pollen season is now longer, don’t suffer, check out Blue Cube air filter. The unusual weather caused by climate change gives us both high heat and rain days, (even flooding) makes it difficult to schedule visits.

Rain is good to wash in fertilizer, lime and soil.

EXTREME WINDS: Can cancel some work as light grass seeds, fertilizer granular and liquids like Fiesta and horticultural vinegar can drift beyond target areas or escape uniform coverage.

DOGS: Some dogs’ bite! You can be sued! Canadian insurance companies paid out millions for dog bit damage last year, check your policy. Larger breeds and high -risk dogs must have basic obedience training. Dog poop is dangerous- toxic, (parasites, bacteria and viruses) and must be cleaned up. We can fix urine damage from dogs. Dogs are a family member. It’s a 10- 15-year commitment that can thousands per year, license, food, insurance, vets need annual blood work, check for ticks, fleas and worms and must be walked 2x a day. You will cry your eyes out when they die. Please get your pet spaded or neutered. Adopt a pet-saves their life and adds to yours. Don’t give your dog rawhide, they can’t digest it, or bones that can puncture them or chocolate that makes them sick.

Many things are toxic to dogs some foods, some out door flowers: lilies, daffodils, tulips, some indoor plants:

Coyotes are a danger especially to small animals, cats and dogs. Please do not feed coyotes.

BIRDS, BIRD FEEDERS AND FLAP: Birds eat weed seeds and pass them along to your lawn. Bird seeds that fall from bird feeders attract rats and mice. Birds eat insects and mosquitoes.

FLAP is fatal light awareness programme- keep birds safe with window collision tape. Birdhouse portal protectors keep squirrels out. (Lee Valley) Turn out your lights! Each spring, April, over 600 million birds will migrate north (Migration Alert-Lightsout for birds.) Cats eat a lot of birds.

Some bird seed is specially treated with pepper to discourage squirrels.

D.I.Y: Don’t get hurt. Some jobs are dangerous and require ladders, chainsaws or electricity. Some jobs require permits. This kind of work is best left to the experts like, outdoor lighting, trimming high trees and irrigation systems. The professionals have the training, experience and specialized tools. Falls are a leading cause of accidents! What is the best use of your time, money and energy?

CHRISTMAS LIGHTS: Please take them down after the holidays. If left in a tree they have the potential to girdle the branches. Summer heat will break down the insulation on these lights

WHAT IS THE LIFE IN THE SOIL? What’s in soil- sand, silt, clay, gravel and stones and lots of bacteria, fungi, nematode, earth worms, nutrients (much more than just N-P-K) carbon, hydrogen and oxygen,”20,000 to 30,000 different species of organisms found in a teaspoon of healthy soil.” From the book, “Building Soils” by Phil Navta. Bacteria in the soil fights diseases, fungi absorb nutrients and water, good soil helps the grass grow.

Never use peat in your soil, it is a non-renewable resource.

THE QUIET WORM INVASION: Many varieties, 5 types, most are beneficial, but the jumping worm is new to Canada, (in Toronto) they are very bad and not good for the soil kill them (drop in vinegar or rubbing alcohol) and please call me. See www.researchGate.net

INSECTS

CONTROL GRUBS WITH NEMATODES:Your lawn has grubs because the nematode population is too low. The nematode is a microscopic worm. These worms are the natural enemy of the grub and feeds on them. The easiest way to control grubs is to prevent them—don’t use high nitrogen fertilizers that kills the life in the soil, including the grub. Our treatment is unique, we control grubs with not one but 2 applications, of beneficial nematodes $160 plus hst. About 75-95% effective for the Japanese beetle, Oriental beetle and European Chafer. We use a larger and very aggressive nematode. We apply them in (early May-early June) and again (late August to early October) they feed in April and August. We use low pressure back packs on over cast days, the soil should be moist. We introduced this stronger, more aggressive nematode in 2019. It is important that the soil be warm and you water for 3-4 days. Extreme cold weather kills grubs and racoons and skunks sometimes eat them all.

BOX TREE MOTH: Monitor check for caterpillars May to August. Check for larvae and webbing earlier, Treat with BTK late May and late July, Fertilize early June and mid-October. If required prune remove infected plants and seal in black bag for disposal. Please call me, we report all sightings to www.inspections.gc.ca/pests

Box woods are problematic-prone to winter damage, boxwood leaf miner, boxwood moth and boxwood mites. Try alternatives, like yew, holly-Strongbox Ink berry, Spirea, Conatser, Knock Our Roses, dwarf burning bush, many varieties

GIANT HOG WEED AND POSION IVY: Please call me if you find them-very dangerous plants! Poison ivy can grow as a (hairy) vine up a tree.

LAWN INSECTS: All insecticides are not legal. Grubs, like the European chafer, Oriental, Japanese and June beetle, that attack roots. Chinch bug, a surface insect that sucks the blades of grass. Also, ants, weevils, billbug, cutworm, leather jacket, sod webworm, crane flies, others insects that annoy us -flies, mosquitoes, Leatherjackets/crane flies and more

DISEASES AND OTHER CHALLENGES

MUSHROOMS: Usually caused by something dead in soil.

THATCH: Is rare and the need for de-thatching is rare. Do not de-thatch your lawn in mid- summer. A light rake with a plastic rake, not steel, in the spring is fine. Thatch has to be over 1/2 inch and usually this debris decomposes. If de-thatching is done, the lawn will need lots of time to recover, so in late spring or early summer. Aeration is a better choice. Quick aeration test, do we need it? Push in a screw driver if goes in quickly no problem if its too hard to push in aerate.

MOSS: Means the soil is too wet, too shady or the soil is depleted. Sometimes drainage is needed or turf is not the best plant selection. Ammonium soaps of fatty acids does kill moss and all surrounding plants and grasses, may need to repeat, not 100% effective. We also like Fiesta and Lime. Moss won’t go away until conditions are corrected.

TREES

TREES: VITAL TO LIFE! The federal government has promised to plant 2 billion trees over the next 10 years! See, treesforlife.ca Co-Founder Mark Cullen. Trees are vital to our environment, trees absorb carbon, provide, oxygen, filter and clean the air, so there is less asthma and cooling shade that reduces illnesses related to heat, knocks temperatures down 20-30 degrees, saving energy and air conditioning costs, captures carbon, all this slows climate change, home for critters, some trees gives us food, good for soil, add to property value, great fall colours, privacy, trees and greenery reduce our stress levels. Many believe trees can stop climate change. Please see www.treesaregood.org

Be careful where you plant them—not too close to the driveway or blocking the front door. Trees can live a very long time, some live to be 100. Trees breathe through their bark it is vital to maintain good root flare don’t bury them too deep-many trees die, buried this way.

THE CHALLENGES OF TREES: Trees grow bigger each year providing more shade and producing a larger root mass: a challenge along with climate change and pesticide ban. Different trees (size, density of grouping and canopy) provide different shade full deep shade to light this impacts the turf and plants that require summer sun. Some have acidic needles that need lime. Female gingko has an odour.

Shade, limited sun impacts photosynthesis: this is the process that powers the life in all plants, this happens in every green plant, like trees and grass, using the suns energy to make sugar and oxygen from CO2 and water. Little sun little growth. Climate change is bad for trees.

Need tree work? Get a certified arborist for very old or rare trees or cutting back circling roots that choke, pruning, diseases, deep root feeding, cabling and invasive pests. Tree health and structure can be greatly increase with regular pruning. Prune suckers, dead, diseased or disoriented branches that rub and cross others. Shape trees when little, no topping. Be careful, large trees can weigh tons and ladders and chainsaws are for the pros! If possible, cut down sick, big trees in winter, when the soil is frozen, so there is no damage to lawn.

In Oakville, the only invasive weed tree you can legally remove is the Buckthorn, they harm surrounding plants and have sharp thorns. City hall controls tree removal bi-laws.

PRUNE: Ok to prune in winter-don’t prune April 1 to October 31. Too cold to plant anything.

Ginkgo and sycamore trees have a smell.

INSECTS THAT ATTACK TREES: Emerald ash borer, Asian long-horned beetle, Bronze birch borer, Spotted wing drosophile, Brown Marnorated stink bug and the recent Spotted Lanternfly plus various aphids, caterpillars, scale, moths including the gypsy moth (now called spongey moth), mites and flies.

DISEASES THAT ATTACK TREES: Sudden Oak Death, Swiss Needle Cast, Black Pine Leaf Scale, Bronze Birch borer, Blister Rust and Oak and Elm Wilt.

BENEFICIAL INSECTS: Praying Mantis (Biological pest control), Dragonfly (Feed on harmful insects like mosquitoes and flies), Bumblebee (Pollinator), Ladybird (Feeds on aphids & scale insects), Cactus moth (Feed on opuntia species), Green lacewing (helpful in killing pests of field crops, orchards and greenhouses), Fig wasp (pollinator), Honey Bee, Lac insect (creates lac resin), Silkworm (creates silk).

World wide, we need lots more trees-millions more! Why not plant a tree this year? - a native Tulip tree, a Gingko. Mark an event or celebrate someone. Great fun to visit a tree farm, get expert advice, let them deliver and install it. Get the one-year warranty, if offered, get it for 2 years. Be careful-some trees are invasive-some bamboos, and Norway maples.

Don’t expect too much the first year from the tree, it is in shock, it will begin to thrive in the 2nd year.

If one of your trees falls down and does damage do not immediately clean up or move it. Take pictures and call your insurance people or if it’s a city tree, call city hall. Find out what’s involved if there is an insurance claim—wait-they may not pay unless they see it. Big branches can weigh 100’s of pounds!

We can add lime to areas where acidic needles have turned the lawn brown.

HOW MUCH WATER DOES A TREE NEED? Depends on species, time of year and age of tree but generally, if a tree trunk is 6 inches, then 60 gallons every week or two, more if drought. Your hose puts out about 10 gallons every 5 minutes. Too much or too little water can be harmful. Trees need frequent watering use a” gator bag” when small. Water larger, mature trees at or beyond the dripline, this is where the where roots are. The tree’s root zone is mostly lateral, just down the first 3-4 feet, they need loose soil to breathe. They need about 10 gallon per caliper inch, with a nice slow, deep release and no run off, consider a drip system. Trees Check out Davey’s Tree Service for Expert Information: “Trees need water to grow new leaves and roots, photosynthesize, transport nutrients and even fight off pests and diseases.”

BEES: Without bees we would all die! Bees are critical as pollinators producing 90% of the world’s food, fruits, vegetables, seeds and nuts. We have always been organic because we understand the importance of bees. The university of Guelph has world class bee research centre-consider sending them a contribution. Please see their website and send them a donation.